An important part of our trip to
Jerusalem was getting there. Because of the wall, although the Mount
of Olives is almost next door, a journey that should be 15 minutes is
at least 2 hours – and we went when there was no queue! There's the
drive to the 'international terminal' to cross the wall first, where
we had to say goodbye to our Abu Dis friends – they can't go
through unless they get special permission. Our host told us of the
one time recently when his family did get permission (through an Eid
lottery). Husbands, wives and children had to queue separately, and
the youngest children were so traumatised, separated from their
parents, waiting to meet the scary soldiers, that in the end they
gave up. The impact of the wall and the checkpoints in terms of
family separation and access to emergency care is enormous, but I
think this video of people waiting to get through a checkpoint simply to go to work is pretty powerful.
After saying au revoir to our friends
we went through the 'terminal', which reminded me of the set up back
home for getting sheep and cattle into trucks before they go to the
abattoir. Though there was no-one much going through (it was nearly
lunchtime), we waited and waited for a red light to go green, and two
people could start the process, and then again, and two more etc.
Once all out the other side we caught a bus to Damascus Gate,
basically coming back the way we'd driven in the morning, but the
other way.
View from Damascus Gate |
Damascus Gate |
A new profession - scarf carrier! |
In Jerusalem, the impression of the old
city is of a spectacularly beautiful city, a little similar to old,
old towns on the Med, and wonderful to walk around because traffic
only operates outside the walled city (except the cleaning vehicles
– see pic below). The atmosphere is incredibly tense though –
there are Israeli soldiers on nearly every street, and settlers
wander around, some of them armed also, we thought. Settled buildings
are draped with Israeli flags, to show off the settlers' triumph.
Palestinians walk hunched and without the smiles we had been greeted
with elsewhere.
A shopper keeping out of the rain. |
A T-shirt to suit any taste available here! |
We visited the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre and saw the Via Dolorosa, Armenian Church, Ottoman era
school, the view of the Dome of the Rock. A couple of us chose not to
visit the Wailing Wall, as the number of cadet soldiers almost
filling the plaza was so chilling.
But, the most important place we went
to was the amazing Al Saraya Centre, where we heard about the kind of
activities that they do to build up the resilience, especially of children who
are subjected to settler attacks and harassment. We were all so impressed with the Centre's
range of activities and the quality of support they offer. Read more in this Medical Aid for Palestinians article.
So another day of mixed feelings –
the stark evidence of oppression so disturbing, and the dignity of
those trying to survive and overcome it so inspiring.