Impressions of Jerusalem

An important part of our trip to Jerusalem was getting there. Because of the wall, although the Mount of Olives is almost next door, a journey that should be 15 minutes is at least 2 hours – and we went when there was no queue! There's the drive to the 'international terminal' to cross the wall first, where we had to say goodbye to our Abu Dis friends – they can't go through unless they get special permission. Our host told us of the one time recently when his family did get permission (through an Eid lottery). Husbands, wives and children had to queue separately, and the youngest children were so traumatised, separated from their parents, waiting to meet the scary soldiers, that in the end they gave up. The impact of the wall and the checkpoints in terms of family separation and access to emergency care is enormous, but I think this video of people waiting to get through a checkpoint simply to go to work is pretty powerful.

After saying au revoir to our friends we went through the 'terminal', which reminded me of the set up back home for getting sheep and cattle into trucks before they go to the abattoir. Though there was no-one much going through (it was nearly lunchtime), we waited and waited for a red light to go green, and two people could start the process, and then again, and two more etc. Once all out the other side we caught a bus to Damascus Gate, basically coming back the way we'd driven in the morning, but the other way.

View from Damascus Gate

Damascus Gate

A new profession - scarf carrier!

In Jerusalem, the impression of the old city is of a spectacularly beautiful city, a little similar to old, old towns on the Med, and wonderful to walk around because traffic only operates outside the walled city (except the cleaning vehicles – see pic below). The atmosphere is incredibly tense though – there are Israeli soldiers on nearly every street, and settlers wander around, some of them armed also, we thought. Settled buildings are draped with Israeli flags, to show off the settlers' triumph. Palestinians walk hunched and without the smiles we had been greeted with elsewhere.

A shopper keeping out of the rain.

A T-shirt to suit any taste available here!

We visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and saw the Via Dolorosa, Armenian Church, Ottoman era school, the view of the Dome of the Rock. A couple of us chose not to visit the Wailing Wall, as the number of cadet soldiers almost filling the plaza was so chilling.

But, the most important place we went to was the amazing Al Saraya Centre, where we heard about the kind of activities that they do to build up the resilience, especially of children who are subjected to settler attacks and harassment. We were all so impressed with the Centre's range of activities and the quality of support they offer. Read more in this Medical Aid for Palestinians article.

So another day of mixed feelings – the stark evidence of oppression so disturbing, and the dignity of those trying to survive and overcome it so inspiring.